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Practical case: Replacement of a damaged capacitor

Esquemático — Practical case: Replacement of a damaged capacitor

Objective and use case

What you’ll build: This guide will help you identify, remove, and replace a faulty electrolytic capacitor in an LED supply circuit, ensuring the circuit functions correctly.

Why it matters / Use cases

  • Repairing LED circuits to restore functionality in household lighting systems.
  • Maintaining electronic devices by replacing damaged capacitors to prevent further damage.
  • Enhancing DIY projects by ensuring stable power supply to components like LEDs.
  • Understanding basic electronic repair techniques applicable to various devices.

Expected outcome

  • Successful identification of faulty capacitors with a digital multimeter.
  • Replacement of the capacitor leading to a restored voltage output of +5 V across the LED.
  • Improved circuit performance with reduced latency in LED response time.
  • Ability to measure capacitance values accurately, ensuring the new capacitor meets specifications.

Audience: Electronics enthusiasts and beginners; Level: Basic

Architecture/flow: Power supply to LED circuit with capacitor replacement process.

Materials

  • 1x DC supply, +5 V (bench supply or USB 5 V)
  • 1x Electrolytic capacitor, C1 = 100 µF, ≥10 V (new replacement)
  • 1x Faulty electrolytic capacitor (original C1 to be removed)
  • 1x Resistor, R1 = 330 Ω, 1/4 W
  • 1x Red LED, D1 (standard 5 mm or similar)
  • 1x Breadboard and jumper wires (for test setup) or an existing PCB to repair
  • 1x Digital multimeter with DC voltage and continuity/capacitance modes
  • Optional (for PCB repair): soldering iron, solder, solder wick (or pump), flux, isopropyl alcohol, ESD wrist strap, safety glasses

Wiring guide

  • Power off the circuit and disconnect the +5 V source before touching components.
  • Identify the damaged capacitor C1 (look for bulging top, leakage, or burnt smell). Mark the board’s polarity: the pad connected to GND and the pad connected to +V.
  • If you are repairing a PCB:
  • Desolder the faulty C1. Heat each lead, remove solder with wick or pump, and gently pull the capacitor out. Clean the pads.
  • Insert the new C1: long lead (+) to the +V pad; short lead (−, stripe) to the GND pad. Solder and trim leads.
  • If you are building the test circuit on a breadboard:
  • Create a +V rail and a GND rail.
  • Place C1 between +V and GND with correct polarity (− to GND).
  • From +V, go through R1 to a node; from that node, go through D1 to GND (LED cathode to GND).
  • Double-check polarity of C1 and D1 before powering.
  • Abbreviations used in the schematic:
  • VC: voltage at the +V node (top of C1) measured relative to GND.
  • VLED: voltage at the LED anode node (between R1 and D1) measured relative to GND.

Schematic

              +5 V
               │
              ┌┴┐  
              │ │   R1 = 100 kΩ (limitador/carga)
              │ │
              └┬┘
               │ ● V_C
               │
        ┌──────┴───────────┐
        │                  │
       ┌┴┐                ┌┴┐
       │ │                │ │   R_LED = 220 Ω (serie LED)
       │ │ C1 = 47 µF     │ │
       └┬┘ 16 V (a        └┬┘  ● V_RLED+
        │   reemplazar)     │
        │                   │
        │                  ┌┴┐
        │                  │ │   LED1 = LED rojo (ánodo arriba)
        │                  │ │
        │                  └┬┘  ● V_RLED−
        │                   │
        └───────────┬───────┘
                    │
                   GND
Schematic (ASCII)

Measurements and tests

  • Safety checks:

    • Verify power is OFF before touching or replacing components.
    • Discharge C1 by briefly connecting a 1 kΩ resistor between +V and GND (do not short it directly).
  • Pre-replacement diagnostics (power OFF):

    • Use continuity mode across the removed, faulty C1. A steady beep suggests a shorted capacitor; open or very low capacitance suggests it dried out.
    • If your meter has capacitance mode, measure the old C1; values far from 100 µF indicate failure.
  • Voltage tests after replacement (power ON):

    • Place the black probe at GND and the red probe on the ● VC node. VC should be close to the supply (about +5.0 V).
    • Move the red probe to ● VLED. VLED should be near the LED forward voltage (about 1.8–2.2 V for a red LED) when lit.
  • Ripple and stability (optional):

    • If you have a multimeter with a “AC on DC” function, measure AC at ● VC with respect to GND. It should be very small (typically <50 mV) in this simple setup. Large ripple suggests poor capacitance or wrong installation.
  • Pass/fail criteria:

    • LED is steadily ON (no flicker).
    • VC ≈ supply voltage; VLED ≈ LED forward drop; no abnormal heating or smell.
    • No continuity short between +V and GND after installation.

Common mistakes

  • Reversing the electrolytic capacitor polarity (− stripe must go to GND). This can cause heating or venting.
  • Using too low a voltage rating (choose at least 2× the supply voltage; here ≥10 V for a 5 V rail).
  • Cold or bridged solder joints on PCB repairs.
  • Measuring voltages without referencing GND; always place the black probe at GND for VC and VLED.

Safety

  • Always power down and discharge capacitors before handling.
  • Wear safety glasses when soldering or when first powering up after replacement.
  • Do not exceed capacitor voltage rating; electrolytics can vent if overstressed.

Improvements

  • Add a 100 nF ceramic capacitor in parallel with C1 (from +V to GND) to better filter high-frequency noise.
  • Choose low-ESR electrolytics for power rails.
  • Label polarity on the board for easier future maintenance.

More Practical Cases on Prometeo.blog

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Quick Quiz

Question 1: What is the value of the replacement electrolytic capacitor C1?




Question 2: What is the minimum voltage rating for the new C1 capacitor?




Question 3: Which component is used to limit the current in the circuit?




Question 4: What should be done before touching the components in the circuit?




Question 5: What tool is used to measure voltage and continuity?




Question 6: What indicates that the original C1 capacitor is faulty?




Question 7: Where should the long lead of the new C1 capacitor be connected?




Question 8: What is the role of the resistor R1 in the circuit?




Question 9: What must be checked before powering on the circuit after repairs?




Question 10: What is the purpose of using isopropyl alcohol during PCB repair?




Carlos Núñez Zorrilla
Carlos Núñez Zorrilla
Electronics & Computer Engineer

Telecommunications Electronics Engineer and Computer Engineer (official degrees in Spain).

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