Objective and use case
What you’ll build: This guide will help you identify, remove, and replace a faulty electrolytic capacitor in an LED supply circuit, ensuring the circuit functions correctly.
Why it matters / Use cases
- Repairing LED circuits to restore functionality in household lighting systems.
- Maintaining electronic devices by replacing damaged capacitors to prevent further damage.
- Enhancing DIY projects by ensuring stable power supply to components like LEDs.
- Understanding basic electronic repair techniques applicable to various devices.
Expected outcome
- Successful identification of faulty capacitors with a digital multimeter.
- Replacement of the capacitor leading to a restored voltage output of +5 V across the LED.
- Improved circuit performance with reduced latency in LED response time.
- Ability to measure capacitance values accurately, ensuring the new capacitor meets specifications.
Audience: Electronics enthusiasts and beginners; Level: Basic
Architecture/flow: Power supply to LED circuit with capacitor replacement process.
Materials
- 1x DC supply, +5 V (bench supply or USB 5 V)
- 1x Electrolytic capacitor, C1 = 100 µF, ≥10 V (new replacement)
- 1x Faulty electrolytic capacitor (original C1 to be removed)
- 1x Resistor, R1 = 330 Ω, 1/4 W
- 1x Red LED, D1 (standard 5 mm or similar)
- 1x Breadboard and jumper wires (for test setup) or an existing PCB to repair
- 1x Digital multimeter with DC voltage and continuity/capacitance modes
- Optional (for PCB repair): soldering iron, solder, solder wick (or pump), flux, isopropyl alcohol, ESD wrist strap, safety glasses
Wiring guide
- Power off the circuit and disconnect the +5 V source before touching components.
- Identify the damaged capacitor C1 (look for bulging top, leakage, or burnt smell). Mark the board’s polarity: the pad connected to GND and the pad connected to +V.
- If you are repairing a PCB:
- Desolder the faulty C1. Heat each lead, remove solder with wick or pump, and gently pull the capacitor out. Clean the pads.
- Insert the new C1: long lead (+) to the +V pad; short lead (−, stripe) to the GND pad. Solder and trim leads.
- If you are building the test circuit on a breadboard:
- Create a +V rail and a GND rail.
- Place C1 between +V and GND with correct polarity (− to GND).
- From +V, go through R1 to a node; from that node, go through D1 to GND (LED cathode to GND).
- Double-check polarity of C1 and D1 before powering.
- Abbreviations used in the schematic:
- VC: voltage at the +V node (top of C1) measured relative to GND.
- VLED: voltage at the LED anode node (between R1 and D1) measured relative to GND.
Schematic
+5 V
│
┌┴┐
│ │ R1 = 100 kΩ (limitador/carga)
│ │
└┬┘
│ ● V_C
│
┌──────┴───────────┐
│ │
┌┴┐ ┌┴┐
│ │ │ │ R_LED = 220 Ω (serie LED)
│ │ C1 = 47 µF │ │
└┬┘ 16 V (a └┬┘ ● V_RLED+
│ reemplazar) │
│ │
│ ┌┴┐
│ │ │ LED1 = LED rojo (ánodo arriba)
│ │ │
│ └┬┘ ● V_RLED−
│ │
└───────────┬───────┘
│
GND
Measurements and tests
-
Safety checks:
- Verify power is OFF before touching or replacing components.
- Discharge C1 by briefly connecting a 1 kΩ resistor between +V and GND (do not short it directly).
-
Pre-replacement diagnostics (power OFF):
- Use continuity mode across the removed, faulty C1. A steady beep suggests a shorted capacitor; open or very low capacitance suggests it dried out.
- If your meter has capacitance mode, measure the old C1; values far from 100 µF indicate failure.
-
Voltage tests after replacement (power ON):
- Place the black probe at GND and the red probe on the ● VC node. VC should be close to the supply (about +5.0 V).
- Move the red probe to ● VLED. VLED should be near the LED forward voltage (about 1.8–2.2 V for a red LED) when lit.
-
Ripple and stability (optional):
- If you have a multimeter with a “AC on DC” function, measure AC at ● VC with respect to GND. It should be very small (typically <50 mV) in this simple setup. Large ripple suggests poor capacitance or wrong installation.
-
Pass/fail criteria:
- LED is steadily ON (no flicker).
- VC ≈ supply voltage; VLED ≈ LED forward drop; no abnormal heating or smell.
- No continuity short between +V and GND after installation.
Common mistakes
- Reversing the electrolytic capacitor polarity (− stripe must go to GND). This can cause heating or venting.
- Using too low a voltage rating (choose at least 2× the supply voltage; here ≥10 V for a 5 V rail).
- Cold or bridged solder joints on PCB repairs.
- Measuring voltages without referencing GND; always place the black probe at GND for VC and VLED.
Safety
- Always power down and discharge capacitors before handling.
- Wear safety glasses when soldering or when first powering up after replacement.
- Do not exceed capacitor voltage rating; electrolytics can vent if overstressed.
Improvements
- Add a 100 nF ceramic capacitor in parallel with C1 (from +V to GND) to better filter high-frequency noise.
- Choose low-ESR electrolytics for power rails.
- Label polarity on the board for easier future maintenance.
More Practical Cases on Prometeo.blog
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